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by Anand Kumria
October 2005
Helsinki Cathedral (Helsinggin Tuomiokirkko). Photo by Anand Kumria

Helsinki Cathedral (Helsinggin Tuomiokirkko). Photo by Anand Kumria

Enjoy sausages, sauna and swimming, not all at once but all in Finland

I took the overnight 'booze cruise' from Stockholm to Helsinki on Sunday with a group of friends on my way to a conference. Yes, it is actually called the booze cruise — it is overnight as Swedes and Finns will get on, drink themselves stupid, sleep, drink themselves stupid again and get off back home.

On Sunday, like most European cities, Helsinki shuts down. Apart from the famous store Stockmans, which opens up in the afternoon.

Stockmans is HUGE. It is eight floors of store-gawking goodness. Even better, unlike here in Australia, you aren't a criminal just by carrying a bag into a store.

You can pick up little Finnish sausages called nakki / lenkki at the great deli downstairs, as well as some bread, cheese and milk. Practically every Finnish meal is served with milk. Why? I don't think even the Finns know.

Once you have your picnic ingredients, get thee to Suomenlinna! The fort was supposed to protect Finland from invaders. Unfortunately, during the one time it might have seen action, its commander was tricked. The 5,000 Finnish soldiers surrendered to the advancing Russian army of 500 without a fight. Now the fort does double duty as a place for lovers' intrigues and a tourist attraction.

July — the height of summer — is one of the best times to go. It's when most Finns are out partying every day of the week too! Experience cognitive dissonance by going to the Ice Bar and having Vodka at -5°c (as intended).

Or make your way to Kallio for the many bars and clubs but beware the retro Western music.

You'll be merrily bopping away, singing along to an old ABBA song when you suddenly realise — in the second verse, of course - that the lyrics aren't in English.

But Finnish! Fortunately, when drunk, Finnish and English sound remarkably alike. Party people only party during daylight hours — in Summer that's 23 hours.

After a big night out, recuperating will be high on your agenda. The best place to do that is at Hietaniemi beach — which is a 20-minute walk away from the City and through a picturesque graveyard.

Afterwards head to a traditional Finnish sauna (and whip yourself with birch) and take the Bar Tram for a quick tour of the city before doing it all again. 

Population 500,000
Currency Euro
Transport Bus, tram and metro
Visa Australians don't require one
Airfare $1,400-1600 return flight

Sydney Observer, August 2006

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