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A Tuscan view from Sydney

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by Hayley Stansell
March 2006
'Venezia'...Copper tubes have never looked so fashionable

'Venezia'...Copper tubes have never looked so fashionable

What can you do with some copper tubing, a heat machine and fabrics dip-dyed in your kitchen sink? The answer is: designs for Roberto Cavalli. We spoke to Melissa Kritsotakis about how her gowns took her from Sydney to Florence.

Young Sydney fashion designer Melissa Maria Kritsotakis never dreamed she would be voted University of Technology's student of the year. Now a whirlwind series of events has seen this newcomer take an important step towards the fashion spotlight. Mixing it up with the rich and famous, she's now in Florence working with famous fashion designer Roberto Cavalli as an apprentice. A lot can happen in two years.

In the majestic Great Hall at UTS in December 2004, the magical glare of the catwalk lights shone as the spectacular music of Lane Moje played. It was 22-year-old Melissa Kritsotakis' grand night showing her collection as part of the UTS Fashion Design School's end-of-year show. Her garments were characterised by their Venetian architecture theme. It was no surprise that later Channel Seven's news coverage of the event included Melissa's magnificent pieces.

Ever since she was a little girl, Melissa Kritsotakis wanted to be a fashion designer. Her mother Karen, who owns a hair salon in Seaforth, has been a great influence on her creativity.

"As my mother strives to get a haircut exactly right, I'm not satisfied unless a dress I have designed is perfect from every angle. The design elements are the same - harmony, balance, and movement."

Melissa's soft voice and gentle manner belie her demonstrated drive and determination. Melissa knows what she likes and wants. Born in Manly, she lived with her family in Seaforth while creating her designs for her final university project.

"I start by making my own textiles. I used copper tubing and textile foil as the primary materials," Melissa says. To make the 'Portia' dress, she used a hot flame to mould different sized copper tubes for effect. She then threaded fabric through the copper tubing, which gave the fabric weight. Her dress named 'Venezia' has unique foiled edges. She screen-printed the raw silk with glue then applied textile foil that went through a special heat machine.

"I wanted to give the gowns the aquatic architecture feel, so I used blues and greens and coppery hues from silk dyes and dip-dyed the fabrics in my kitchen sink at home."

She spent her life savings of $10,000 on fabrics for her final university project and that collection is now worth over $45,000.

Melissa Kritsotakis is creative and talented. She is also generous. In January last year, she organised a fashion show and raised $4,000 for the Boxing Day Tsunami victims.

It didn't take long for Melissa to gain recognition for her designs. After she had finished her degree, she went to the Louis Vuitton Barefoot Ball where model and trainee copywriter Kate Waterhouse asked Melissa to design her twenty-first birthday dress. Melissa was thrilled. "It's all about connections, who you know, and getting amongst it," she says.

Six months ago, she confidently turned down a business offer to take over the bridal shop where she had worked part-time for three years. "I didn't want to feel locked into something and my dreams were pulling me in every direction. I want to make it on my own."

Melissa was elated when she was asked to design the wedding dress worn by Bec Cartwright in her role as Hayley in Channel Seven's Home and Away  She was astounded. "TV Week was inundated with requests about where Home and Away got the wedding dress from," Melissa says. "It was the best feeling. I know there's a place for me in the market."

Last June, Melissa's innovative textiles were displayed as part of the 'Floating Fashion' exhibition at Sydney Powerhouse Museum and Düsseldorf City Museum in Germany. Before leaving Australia, she was earning a comfortable $1,000 per dress. Her career was really taking off.

In March last year, she took a three-month trip visiting her relatives in Kalamata, Greece. Melissa applied to do work experience with the famous Italian designer Roberto Cavalli, and was overwhelmed when she was accepted.

After a personal phone call from Roberto himself, Melissa flew to Florence, where she is now living. Her first experience in Florence involved Mr and Mrs Cavalli having a model parade Melissa's copper bodice up and down their design studio. "There is no feeling in the world to describe how happy I was when Roberto Cavalli looked at his wife and smiled at my work."

It all started to happen really quickly for her. Cavalli gave her an apartment, income and an exquisite workspace to provoke her creative flair. "I have a mannequin by my desk which I've been draping my designs ideas over. I sit on a leopard skin chair and have a view of the Tuscan Hill in the distance. The head designers like my natural style which means that I'm not trying to force designs or be restricted by what they are looking for."

It's a fast-paced environment, with all the different departments where creative Italian and international people work. "It's exciting everyday. People ask me if it bothers me that my designs aren't under my own name, but I explain that there are many people contributing to my work. Embroiderers, seamstresses, my fashion assistant, and we are collectively under the Cavalli name."

Melissa has been working on designs for the upcoming Cavalli fashion show named 'Autumn/Winter collection 2007' held in Milan on February 25. Mrs Cavalli, the creative director, is particularly impressed with an evening gown Melissa has designed which might go in the fashion show.

"It is a backless slinky number. It's sexy but elegant, with a long train coming off the back of the dress. I can't disclose the colour, but it is beautiful and everyone loves it."

Her work has been challenging and demands confidence. "I was asked to turn a tailored vintage jacket into a dress. They often give me a vague design task to do and leave it to me to design."

Melissa is exposed to the European fashion industry, encountering visits from the editor of Vogue and mixing with some of the most creative people in the business.

"I'm amazed at the level of responsibility they have given me. One of the models was trying on a dress I designed and people were asking me how I wanted the pattern. I felt very important."

After her fashion show, she plans to see her relatives in Greece, before returning home in Sydney. "Eva Cavalli wants me to go back and work with them again. I can't wait."

Sydney Observer, August 2006

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